It's All about the Presentation

During my first few years in Fresno, Max's Bistro was one of my favorite restaurants. I was always happy with the food there, but over the last few years, I've frequented less expensive restaurants.

Last night, I returned to Max's and wondered why I'd ever given it up. The bistro environment with dark colors and crisp white tablecloths is so welcoming, and the food was, as always, delicious.

Our waitress brought us a complimentary crostini topped with cheese and strawberries. Since I am still in savory mode, I wasn't terribly crazy about a sweeter appetizer. She also brought us bread and olive oil which I uncharacteristically ignored. Why? Because Toni had a coupon for free sweet potato fries . . . which were so beautiful both to look at and eat.

The fries were crisp on the outside and chewy on the inside. I love the white, salty crust that forms on the fries. And I adored the jalapeno arugula aioli which was served with the fries: a little spicy, a little creamy, and oh-so-good. If there were a Fries and Chips Anonymous, I would have to join--I love fries and chips in almost any incarnation. Although I practiced some restraint last night, typically, my ability to control my intake disappears around fries. I have to eat them until they are gone, no matter how full I am. How could anyone resist these beautiful fries?

I ordered one of the specials for the night: halibut with a vegetable potsticker. I was definitely in the mood for fish, but I didn't want salmon and Toni ordered the swordfish--so halibut was the last fish dish available.

I liked the peppery crust on the top of the fish and the delicious hoisin-soy sauce on top, but halibut isn't the most interesting fish. Without the sauce, this would have been a very bland dish. I enjoyed the potsticker with its surprising filling of pea pods and scallions. However, I only had a bite or two of the noodles since I'd eaten the sweet potato fries at the beginning of the meal.

Toni's poached swordfish was quite tasty with its more meaty, substantive texture. It was seasoned with thyme and served with asparagus, roasted fingerling potatoes, and a lemon caper aioli.

Both of these dishes were presented well and prepared with care. I do wish that Max's had more vegetarian dishes and was a little more experimental in combining flavors. Nevertheless, I really enjoyed my meal, the ambience, and the impeccable service.