The Icing

I've been immersing myself in politics over the last week as I've read memoirs by both candidates, examined New York Times articles, and watched the keynote speeches from the Democratic convention. Most of the schools that have contacted me want my presentation about the election--so I'm trying to make sure that I am well versed in what's happening in this campaign.

My friend Madhu blogged about an interesting and (I think) little known aspect of the campaign. The science community collaborated to ask the candidates 14 questions related to science and technology. Only Obama has responded, but his answers are worth looking at. I hope that McCain will get around to responding as well.

Let me know what you think.

I love Norway so far. Thanks to all my Fulbright connections, I've had a lot to do both personally and professionally. Thursday Drew invited me to come observe his class. He teaches at a special school for athletes located behind the U.S. Embassy. In many ways, this visit was reassuring. His students participated, they were opinionated, they were funny--everything I like about teenagers in the U.S. They were also very proficient in English. Monday, I'll go to another school with Hilde. It will be interesting to see how the schools compare.

After visiting Drew's class, I went to Grunerlokka, which one of the guidebooks describes as "the Greenwich Village" of Oslo. I'm not sure that's how I'd describe it, but I did really enjoy my afternoon there. I took the trikk (tram) up, catching it just down the street from my apartment. I exited above Grunerlokka and walked into the neighborhood which includes a park, shops, and restaurants (including a tiki bar and a couple of Mexican restaurants).

When it rained last week, I got soaked to above the knees the day I was walking around town. I now totally understand the importance of knee high rubber boots when it rains. I saw a couple of pairs of boots in Grunerlokka but didn't buy any. I did purchase some lentils and spices from one store, but mostly, I walked around, exploring the neighborhood, looking at art galleries and popping into the occasional shop. The area is charming; I'll be returning to Grunerlokka.

Yesterday, Jen and I took the bus to Bygdoy, the last well known part of Oslo that I hadn't yet seen. It turned out to be quite rural--we saw cows and sheep and a lot of trees. The folk museum is out there--one of the places I most want to go in Oslo--but after tourist season all the museums are free, so I'm trying to get myself to wait. We also walked around the Majorstuen area which is a yuppie haven. I have to admit that I loved going into the Centra, a big grocery store that reminded me of Whole Foods. I bought risotto, gruyere, and plastic utensils (I'm hosting the first Fulbright get together on Sunday).

Jen and I had also been in the Fulbright office yesterday--Kevin helped us with some banking questions and we ended up having lunch there, as well. Ole, who is on the Fulbright board, invited us to a Norway Democrats party last night at a pizza place called Dolly Dimple's (I don't even want to understand the name of this chain). So we gathered with American expats last night, eating pizza and watching Obama's convention speech. All week, I've been watching the speeches on YouTube--but it was really fun to be with a large group of people for this speech.

Afterwards, we hung out with Kirsten, Jeff, Kevin, Lucienne, and Ole talking politics. We talked about which speeches we liked best and discussed McCain's selection of Sarah Palin as his running mate in addition to talking about all things Norway. Kirsten, Jeff, and Lucienne are students here in Oslo. Kevin works for the Fulbright office, and Ole works here but is soon being transferred back to North Carolina. They are really interesting and funny. I think my favorite moment was Jeff's admission that he got most of his ideas from the pundits--I don't entirely believe him but we all laughed. This was such a fun evening--we closed the restaurant down because we were enjoying our conversation so much.

There has been so much to do here--I think my first totally open day isn't until next Wednesday. I'm still managing to get work done, but I'm also having a lot of fun. Jeff and Kirsten were Fulbrighters last year who decided to stay another year. I can see why.

I think I have the draft of workshops/presentations I'm offering finished . . . at least for now. I've also created a public Google Map so that schools can see where I'll be and invite me to add them to my schedule while I'm in the area. So far, this is how my map looks.

View Larger Map

It's exciting to see the calendar start to fill up. I'm glad, though, that I have a few more weeks to work on my presentations. So far, the majority of invitations are to come talk about the election. I've been reading memoirs by both McCain and Obama--and looking at YouTube video about them as well. Thanks to the Apple store in Fresno, I know how to use Keynote. Thanks to Andre, I now know how to embed a video clip in a Keynote presentation. And thanks to Jen I know how to download video. By the end of this experience, I'll be a pro in these kinds of presentations.

Monday I'll go to Lorenskog to observe my new friend Hilde teach English. I met her at the reception the other night, and she graciously agreed to allow me to visit her class. I really want to see what students and schools are like here before I start presenting.

What a humbling day. All the Fulbrighters for the 2008-2009 school year met at the Nobel Institute in Oslo today. You know, the place where decisions about the Nobel Peace Prize are made--and where the press conference is held to announce the recipient (on Oct. 10). There were a number of activities today: introductions (what an interesting group of people!), lunch, presentations on the Norwegian educational system and on Norway's view of the U.S., a reception, and a tour of the Nobel Institute. It was good to finally meet the other Fulbrighters, and we're already planning a get together next week.

The reception began with a welcome from Geir Lundestad, the director of the Nobel Institute, and Benson Whitney, the U.S. ambassador to Norway. They had each of the Fulbright recipients introduce ourselves to the room full of people associated with the Fulbright Commission--which ranged from teachers and students who had participated in a Fulbright sponsored program to the Fulbright Board to local politicians.

After the introductions, we moved into a room with hors d'oeuvres and beverages. A lot of people introduced themselves and offered to help me get started with school observations and visits. I'm so excited about the work I'll be doing this year--and all the interesting places I'll get to see! And I so appreciated these offers of help. I hope that over the next week or two, I can observe in a couple of schools to get a feel for the Norwegian educational system.

After the reception, Anne Kjelling, the Head Librarian of the Nobel Institute, gave us a tour of the building. She focused on the room where the Nobel committee deliberates and explained the process to us. The room itself has a small, black and white photograph of each Nobel recipient--and Anne shared stories about some of them, including the wife of Andrei Sakharov who accepted the prize in his behalf and shopped afterwards for such basic items as shoes for grandchildren who had no winter shoes and a backpack for a son who traveled with only a cardboard box. Her husband had told her she could use a small amount of the prize money to shop--and that's what she chose to buy. Most of the recipients, including Sakharov, use the money (10,000,000 kroner) to further their work for peace, even though they are never required to give an accounting.

It was also quite moving to hear Anne talk about Aung San Suu Kyi, who received the prize in 1991, but who still is not allowed to leave Burma/Myanmar (or her home, for that matter) because of the government's resentment/anger/suspicion of her human rights advocacy. She hopes to some day come to Oslo and give the lecture that is one of only two requirements to receive the award (the other is the picture displayed at the Institute).

All day, I felt like pinching myself to make sure that this is all real. I'm really humbled to be part of the Fulbright program--and to be here in Norway which has such a rich history in the promotion of world peace.

I live in an area of Oslo called Aker Brygge. What is still a bustling wharf was transformed into a shopping and dining mecca after the shipyard closed about 30 years ago.

Aker Brygge

My neighborhood is about a 10 minute walk away from the wharf which tends to attract both tourists and locals during the summer.

Last week, Tove told me about a nearby greengrocer, which Kevin pointed out to me on Friday. I had just done some grocery shopping the day before, but I look forward to buying my produce here (beautiful mini-aubergines, currants, red onions with the tops left on). There's also a Kiwi (a Norwegian mini-market chain) close by.

Produce Stand, Oslo Style

Yesterday, I met my new friend Jennifer (the other Roving Scholar) to go to a multicultural music festival at the wharf that Tove had told us about.

Multicultural Music Festival Attendees in Front of Radhuset (City Hall)

We walked around a little, but ended up sitting on a boat enjoying the beautiful day and getting to know each other. We also walked up to Akershus fortress which once protected the harbor to look at the spectacular view of Oslofjorden.

Oslofjorden

Next, we wandered into the city center hoping to find Norwegian food for dinner. Instead, we had tapas (cod, grilled veggies, garlic bread, and manchego with apple compote) in Gronland, a neighborhood where many immigrants to Norway live. We were so hungry by that time, that I forgot to take pictures. The cod was really delicious as was the manchego/apple combination. And a band which featured drums played just down the street.

After dinner, we returned to the music festival. I was a little cold by that time, but the music and the crowds of people were so energizing that we hung out for quite awhile listening to reggae, a female Indian rapper, and a band from London.

Jennifer took the trikk (tram) home while I walked back to my apartment feeling safe in spite of the darkness because there were so many people around. I love living in an urban environment.

I arrived here in Oslo on Monday. Since then, I've been busy with the logistic and bureaucratic steps required when moving to a different country. I've hung out with some Fulbright colleagues; waited for my luggage to arrive (one day late); shopped at Ikea for sheets, towels, and a comforter; found the closest grocery store and post office--and renewed my exercise regime with a walk in the park (literally).

Yesterday, I registered with the police and also with the Folkeregister (to get a national ID number). For each of these steps, I had to find the correct location, take a number, wait, and finally have very efficient state employees help me with the paperwork.

As a reward for being patient with the process, I allowed myself to go to the Munchmuseet when I was done. This wasn't planned--when I got off the subway at Toyen (where the Folkeregister was), a sign informed me that the museum was nearby. I quite happily searched it out once I was done and really enjoyed it, especially the exhibit on the Scream and Madonna, Munch's most famous pieces. This exhibit had many different versions of each work in a variety of media. I especially enjoyed learning about the Madonna figures with their combination of eroticism and religious meaning. Another piece that I found intriguing was "The Voice/Summer Night." Be sure to check out this link to see the painting. It's dark and moody mitigated somewhat by the promise of small streaks of light.

Munch's work typifies a more despairing view of life that can be quite evocative. His figures are often faceless and alone (he even titled several versions of two figures "The Lonely Ones"). I wonder if Munch's work expresses a Norwegian sensibility of some sort??? In any event, I hope that my understanding of Norwegian culture deepens over the coming months.

For now, though, I am exploring this city. I walk its streets, gaze at the fjord from the harbor near my apartment, acquaint myself with my new neighborhood, and look into people's faces, familiarizing myself with a place that will, I'm sure, become home to me.

The other night, my friends Rick and Karen had a small get together in my honor. We all brought food, talked for a long time, ate, and then talked some more. We sat in Rick and Karen's living room until late--and I found myself listening to other conversations, looking around the room at my dear friends, and otherwise memorizing the evening's warmth and laughter.

The kids popped in and out, relaxing in the living room with us for periods of time before running off to the back room to watch t.v. and play.

I've said this frequently this summer: in blogs, in conversation, in person. I love these people. They are my community--and their affection buoys me as I embark on my next adventure.

Samina helped me pack today. Andre arrives tomorrow. Toni will make dinner for us and my best friends. And then it's one more day of errands and packing before I go. I suspect that my next blog entry will be written in an airport or in Oslo itself.

But for now, I walk around my home, focusing on the present, feeling contentment, and reflecting on my summer.

I'm ready.

This week, I'm experiencing liminality, that feeling of being in between, on the threshold of a new stage in my life. There are rituals attached to leaving a place behind--the last parties with friends, the preparations--and strong emotions that accompany the unknown--the anxiety, the anticipation. These rituals and feelings allow me to acknowledge the attachment I feel to place and people . . . while simultaneously moving me towards new experiences and ways of living.

Right now, I don't feel ready. Logistically, I have a lot left to do. Emotionally, I'm still working on being strong and confident about this change. Personally, I feel a gamut of emotions.

I don't know what the coming year will bring. I'm not sure how I'll assimilate to my new surroundings--and how living in Norway will change me. The unknown can be both scary and exciting. It can reinvigorate one's relationship to the world, which is what I'm hoping for. I don't want to even think about other possibilities.

I blog a lot about my friends and my life in Fresno, but today it's all about family. I've been in Utah for a few days, working at the new library at Utah State with my dad, going to the Stokes Nature Center up Logan Canyon with my brother Matt and his family, eating Aggie ice cream, and otherwise enjoying family.

Kathee, Maddie, Carrie, Jake and Sam

Today we all met at a park in North Ogden, Utah underneath a peak that a great great grandmother dubbed Ben Lomond because it reminded her of the mountain close by her home in Scotland.

Front: Mom, Dad, Kathee
Back: Ted, Matt, David, Jim

I hadn't seen the whole family together since my grandfather's funeral last year. This year, everyone was able to make it except my niece Kelli's husband Kevin (who had to work), my sister-in-law Angie and my niece Natalie, who is still in the hospital. I was really glad I could see most of my family before I take off for Europe--they are so important to me. It meant a lot that my two grown up nephews, Nate and Zac, both came. Nate was on his way to Bear Lake to spend the weekend with friends--but he stayed at the park quite awhile chatting. He's been working as an apprentice to an electrician but is trying to decide what to do with the rest of his life. Zac will graduate college this year and will apply for Ph.D. programs in Political Theory. He's a great student and I hope he'll get into the schools in California that he is considering--although I think he'd probably rather go back east.

My sister-in-law Emily, Mom, Nate

Zac, Kathee, Ashlie

It also meant a lot that I could see Kelli, who is a Political Science major at Weber State, and Steven who just graduated from high school and is on his way to Utah State University this fall. It's really wonderful to see these kids become adults, to see them make grown up decisions as they venture out in the world.

Kathee and Kelli

Kenny and Steven

I'm also really proud of my teenaged nieces and nephews. Ashlie has been taking care of her sister Rylann this summer while Natalie's been in the hospital. She'll be in eighth grade this year but was so responsible as she watched Ry play today. This has been a rough summer for my brother Ted's family--but they are all so loving to each other and have worked hard to make sure that Ry, who is just four, is taken care of.

Addie enjoyed reading Stephanie Meyer's new book today and talking with Ash. Maddie also enjoyed reading today, a Henry Reed book. And the younger kids, Ry, Jason, Kenny, Rachel, Josh, Jake, and Sam played on the jungle gym and even had a water fight.

Since I grew up with four brothers, their wives have become an important part of my life. They are such good women--and a lot of fun to be around. They've given me a taste of how much I missed by growing up without sisters. At least I have four wonderful sisters now (we missed you today, Angie).

Front: Kathee and Emily
Back: Carrie and Diane

Since the majority of the pictures I have are ones I took, I wanted to make sure I was in the pictures with my family this time. I'll want to have these pictures with me over the next year when I'm so far apart from them. And I realized that we didn't really have a picture of all the siblings all grown up.

Front: Jim, Kathee
Back: Ted, Matt, David

The only complaint I have about days like today is that I can't spend a lot of time with each person getting caught up on the more personal stuff. I tried to make sure to talk to everyone, but there's never enough time--and with so many people around it's a little distracting.

So. Family. I really love each and every one of you.